DMM put out a great video/write-up on this issue.įull size carabiners are easier to hold but generally they're also heavier. This can be very dangerous as small abrasions made by the bolt can easily wear your rope. Many manufacturers are now making the bolt-end carabiner come standard in silver (to match the bolt color), and are coloring the rope-end with other anodizations.ĭo not mix (interchange) bolt-end carabiners and rope-end carabiners. We have classified these as bent gates since they're not totally straight. Today, many wiregates have a hybrid almost-straight-but-kinda-bent gate and are offered in this version only (not as a classic a bent or straight option).

All locking carabiners have straight gates.

Choosing a bent or straight gate does not significantly change the weight, strength, or price of the carabiner.

Primarily used on the rope-end (bottom) of quickdraws. Bent GateĬreated to make it easier to put the rope into a quickdraw with their larger gate opening. Also used for racking gear such as cam and nuts. Always used as the bolt-end of the quickdraw, and still sometimes used on the rope-side too. It's easier to see the difference between straight and bent gates on solid gate carabiners: Straight Gate Learn More See the newest auto-locking gate technologies The debate comes on opening speed as some are much faster while others can be a struggle. Screw gates are generally lighter and cheaper.Īuto-locking gates are usually considered safer as they automatically snap shut, not counting on one's memory to close and are harder to accidentally unlock.

to rack (hold) your gear on your harness.

Locking Locking main non-locking carabiners uses: Learn More Pros and cons of each shape, graphs and more examples Buy if you’re the curious type they’re not cheap, and there’s not many in the US. Semi-circle: Mostly used by Search and Rescue as this is a great way to secure a chest harness.ģ-D: Designed to increase the gate opening and to reduce the chance that the rock will rub your rope and/or the locking gate open. They're used when setting up a semi-permanent rappel station (not used while climbing up).

These semi-permanent links ensure the gate will not accidentally open. Quick Link (aka Oval link, Maillon Raptide)Īlthough most climbers wouldn’t refer to this shape as a “carabiner” they are certified by the same EN standard as all the other carabiners.

Downside: Smaller gate openings than the offset D. Since the strongest part of the carabiner carries the weight, D’s are the strongest shape. D (aka symmetric D)ĭ’s have a symmetrical shape that sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like the oval).

The bonus is, your gear rests squarely in the middle, so it's great for holding nuts, pulleys, and prusiks. Since the weaker gate shares the load with the spine, oval biners aren’t as strong as shapes that direct the load to the spine. When loaded, the pressure is shared equally on both sides of the ‘biner. The first carabiner shape to be mass produced. They are almost always locking and are generally heavier (than D/offset D's) because they need more material to gain back strength lost due to their shape. The wide top means they can hold a lot of gear. The Pear/HMS carabiner is used primarily for belaying and/or setting a powerpoint in an anchor. Used for top and bottom quickdraws, as racking carabiners, and lightweight lockers. When loaded, most of the weight is transferred to the spine of the carabiner making them stronger than most other shapes. Offset D (aka Modified D)Ī modification of the standard D shape, the top of an offset D is much wider, allowing for a larger (and superior) gate opening. In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.Īlmost every carabiner you use will be non-locking offset D’s, with the exception of a Pear/HMS locker as your belay ‘biner.

Black diamond positron quickdraw